The Strokes of the Italian Shave

Written By ROMAIN

First Passage

Many barbers ask how shaving strokes should be understood in practice. In reality, straight razor shaving remains a craft. The illustrated stroke patterns are primarily educational tools designed to provide structure and consistency during training. Historically, systems such as these were used by barber schools, including Moler in the United States, to train large numbers of barbers according to the same standards.

For the first passage, the objective is to reduce the beard efficiently while maintaining maximum comfort for the client. The diagrams illustrate the principal hand positions used throughout the shave:

  • B – Forehand

  • C – Backhand

  • D – Reversed Forehand

  • E – Reversed Backhand

Study these movements carefully and observe how the razor travels across the face. Once the fundamentals have been mastered, the barber gradually learns to adapt the angle, direction and technique to the individual characteristics of each client.

Second Passage

The second passage follows the same general structure as the first, but its purpose is different. At this stage, the barber focuses on achieving a closer and more refined result while continuing to respect the skin and natural beard growth patterns.

The same hand positions are used throughout the shave:

  • B – Forehand

  • C – Backhand

  • D – Reversed Forehand

  • E – Reversed Backhand

Although the movements may appear similar on paper, they require a different approach in practice. Beard density, growth direction, skin sensitivity and facial contours all influence the execution of the second passage. For this reason, these diagrams should be regarded as guides rather than strict rules. True mastery develops through observation, repetition and experience.

Want to join the Scapicchio Academy at ROMAIN in Ghent, belgium?

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If you want more than just a good story and you’re ready to sharpen your craft (or your own look), you know where to find us.

From straight razor training and honing on natural stone to classic shaves and serious beard work in the chair, ROMAIN Barbershop & Academy in Ghent is where it actually happens—no noise, no shortcuts.

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Website ROMAIN: http://www.romainghent.be
Website Scapicchio Academy: http://www.scapicchioacademy.com

ROMAIN https://www.romainghent.be
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